✓ KEY TAKEAWAYS
Before you start your zellige project, know this:
- Zellige tiles vary 1-3mm in thickness and appearance— Often sought-after design feature of this tile
- Tile snappers will crack zellige 50%+ of the time—invest in a wet saw with continuous rim blade (DeWalt D24000 or Ryobi WS722)
- 1/16″ grout lines look best and minimize lippage issues from tile variance—wider spacing ruins the zellige aesthetic
- Never use pre-mixed thinset in wet areas—it won’t cure properly and tiles will fail within months
- Tiling is 90% prep, 10% installation—flat, level, plumb walls are essential for zellige success
INTRODUCTION
Last month we installed 150 square feet of Moroccan zellige tile in a Toronto bathroom. The client found it on Pinterest, fell in love with the handmade look, and had one question: “Can you get this in Canada?”
The answer? Sort of. We sourced it directly from Morocco for $25/sqft—but that was just the beginning. Two months of planning. Six-week lead time. Every tile a different thickness. Color shifts from deep emerald to almost-white green within the same box.
This is what makes zellige beautiful—and why it’s a nightmare to install if you don’t know what you’re doing. After 200+ tile installations at Anderson Kitchen and Bath, here’s everything I’ve learned about installing handmade Moroccan tile so you don’t make the mistakes that cost thousands to fix.
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🛠️ ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR ZELLIGE INSTALLATION
If you’re tackling a zellige project, you’ll need these tools:
- DeWalt D24000 Wet Saw – $350 (best for clean cuts)
• Ryobi WS722 Wet Saw – $180 (budget-friendly option)
• Tile Leveling System with Red Wedges – $40
• ¼” x ¼” Notched Trowel – $15
• Laser Level – $80
• Schluter All-Set Thinset – $45/bag
• Mapei Flexicolour Grout – $30/bag
Full tool list + installation technique below ↓ ━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━
COMMON MISTAKES TO AVOID
Before we get into the installation process, let’s cover the mistakes that will cost you time, money, and headaches. I’ve made most of these myself—so you don’t have to.
Mistake #1: Using Pre-Mixed Thinset in Wet Areas
This is the biggest mistake I see DIYers and even some contractors make.
The problem: Pre-mixed tile adhesive is air-cured. In a shower or wet area with no airflow, it will never fully cure. Worse, it reactivates with water—meaning your tiles can literally fall off the wall within 6-12 months.
The solution: Always use modified thinset for wet installations. My go-to products:
- Schluter All-Set ($45/bag) – readily available, works great
- Kiesel Servolight – my personal favorite, best non-slump formula
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Never use pre-mixed thinset in showers or wet areas.
Pre-mixed adhesive requires airflow to cure—behind tile, there is none.
Result: Tiles fall off. Expensive repairs. Angry clients.
Use: Modified thinset (Schluter All-Set or Kiesel Servolight) ━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━
Mistake #2: Skipping the Backbuttering Step
Backbuttering means applying a thin layer of thinset to the back of each tile before setting it on the thinsetted wall.
Why it matters: Zellige tiles have thickness variations. Without backbuttering, you’ll have voids behind the tile—areas where thinset doesn’t make contact. This leads to weak adhesion and eventual failure.
My technique: I use the back side of a margin trowel to press thinset into the back of each tile. Most zellige has a slight waffle pattern on the back—fill those grooves completely. This ensures 99% coverage and a bond that lasts a lifetime.
Skip this step? Expect tiles to pop off, especially in high-traffic or wet areas.
Mistake #3: Trusting Your Level Over Your Eyes
This one sounds counterintuitive, but it’s critical with zellige.
Zellige tiles aren’t perfect squares. Some are slightly trapezoidal. Some have rounded edges. Your laser level will tell you everything is perfectly plumb and level—but your eyes will see that something looks off.
The solution: Use red wedges in addition to your 1/16″ spacers to make micro-adjustments. Sometimes this means going against what the laser says. Trust your eyes—you’re the one looking at this installation for 10+ years, not the laser.
Mistake #4: Using a Tile Snapper Instead of a Wet Saw
You can’t say I didn’t warn you.
Zellige tiles are so uneven that getting a clean score line is nearly impossible. I’ve seen snappers crack 8 out of 10 tiles—and at $25/sqft, that gets expensive fast.
The investment that pays off: A quality wet saw with a continuous rim blade.
My recommendation:
- DeWalt D24000 ($350) – what I use on every job, handles zellige perfectly
- Ryobi WS722 ($180) – budget option that works for smaller projects
The wet saw gives you smooth, clean cuts every time. The water cooling prevents glaze chipping. It’s not optional for zellige—it’s essential.
Mistake #5: Not Testing Layout First
This seems obvious, but I still see it skipped constantly.
The problem: You mix your thinset, start installing, and realize three rows in that you’re going to end up with a 1-inch sliver cut in the corner. Now your thinset is getting stiff, you’re rushing, and the installation suffers.
The solution: Dry lay your tiles first.
Put tiles against the wall without thinset. Mark where each tile ends. Move down the wall to the corners. If you have cuts under 1″, adjust your starting point. Maybe start with a half tile to balance the layout.
Pro tip: Check the height too. I’ve seen installers focus on horizontal layout and forget to plan the top row—ending up with a 1/2″ cut at the ceiling that looks terrible.
Never mix thinset until your layout is completely planned.
Mistake #6: Wrong Grout Line Spacing
In my experience, 1/16″ grout lines look best on zellige.
Here’s why: Zellige has natural thickness and size variation. If you start with 1/16″ spacing, some areas will naturally expand to 1/8″ due to tile variance—and that’s fine. It still looks intentional.
Start with 1/8″ or larger? You’ll end up with 1/4″ gaps in some spots. It ruins the zellige aesthetic and makes the installation look amateur.
Use 1/16″ tile spacers on all edges, then adjust individual tiles with red wedges as needed.
Mistake #7: Skipping the Slaking Process
“Slaking” sounds like construction jargon, but it’s essential for proper thinset adhesion.
What is slaking?
Most modified thinsets require a two-step mixing process:
- First mix: Combine powder and water to buttercream frosting consistency
- Let rest 10 minutes: This allows the polymers and chemicals to activate
- Second mix: Remix for 5 minutes (don’t add more water!)
How to test if it’s ready: Lightly touch the mixture with your finger. If thinset transfers to your skin, it’s not done slaking. When it’s ready, it won’t stick to a light touch.
Why this matters: Skipping slaking results in weak adhesion. The 10-minute rest allows the thinset to reach its full bonding strength. Rush this step, and you’ll pay for it later with tile failures.
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SUBSTRATE PREPARATION
This is where most tile installations succeed or fail—before a single tile is set.
Why Flat, Level, and Plumb Walls Matter for Zellige
With standard tile, you can sometimes compensate for slightly uneven walls with extra thinset. With zellige? Not a chance.
Zellige already has 1-3mm thickness variation per tile. If your walls aren’t flat, you’re fighting two battles at once—and lippage becomes impossible to manage.
The result of bad substrate prep:
- Grout lines that look wavy and inconsistent
- Corner cuts that are different on every row
- Tiles that look crooked even when they’re perfectly placed
- Hours of frustration trying to make it work
The truth: Tiling is 90% prep, 10% installation. Do not rush the prep stage.
How to Check If Your Walls Are Flat
Grab your longest level (6-foot is ideal) and move it around the wall surface in different directions.
Look for:
- Dips where the level rocks
- Humps where the level touches in the middle but gaps at the ends
- Out-of-plumb vertical sections
Acceptable tolerance: 1/8″ variance over 10 feet maximum for zellige.
If walls are out? You need to fix them before tiling. Skim coat if needed. You can’t compensate with thinset alone—the grooves from your notched trowel won’t allow it.
My secret weapon: Foam shims from Built with Foam. These allow micro-adjustments during framing/drywall stage to get walls as close to flat as possible before tiling even begins.
TOOLS & MATERIALS YOU’LL NEED
Let’s break down exactly what you need for a professional zellige installation.
Essential Tools
Cutting:
- DeWalt D24000 Wet Saw ($350) – Makes the cleanest cuts, handles zellige’s thickness inconsistency better than cheaper models
- Budget option: Ryobi WS722 ($180) – Works for smaller projects, under 100 sqft
Layout & Setting:
- Laser Level ($80) – Critical for keeping lines straight on handmade tile. Look for one with horizontal and vertical modes
- ¼” x ¼” Notched Trowel ($15) – Essential groove size for zellige; larger notches create too much thinset, smaller won’t provide enough
- Margin Trowel ($8) – For backbuttering each tile
- Tile Leveling System with Red Wedges ($40) – Game changer for managing thickness variance
- 1/16″ Tile Spacers ($10) – Ideal grout line spacing for zellige aesthetic
Grouting:
- Rubber Grout Float ($15) – Best for small grout lines
- Large Sponges ($8) – For grout cleanup
- Clean rags
Materials
Adhesive:
- Schluter All-Set ($45/bag) – My go-to, readily available at most tile suppliers
- Alternative: Kiesel Servolight – Best non-slump formula for vertical installations
- ⚠️ NEVER use pre-mixed thinset in wet areas
Grout:
- Mapei Flexicolour ($30/bag) – Best grout on the market, easy to work with, holds color longest
- Unsanded formula for 1/16″ lines (sanded would scratch zellige’s delicate glaze)
Finishing:
- Grout Sealer ($25) – Though Mapei Flexicolour comes pre-sealed, reseal yearly
- Schluter Jolly Trim ($3-5/piece) – For edges and niches; cleaner than mitering
- Clear Silicone or Mapei Color-Matched Caulk ($8) – For corners after grout cures
Cost Estimate
If starting from scratch:
~$500-700 in tools
If you already have a wet saw:
~$100-150 in specialized zellige tools
Materials for 150 sqft:
~$345 (thinset, grout, sealer, trim, misc)
PLANNING YOUR LAYOUT
At $25/sqft, zellige isn’t cheap. Smart layout planning minimizes waste and ensures a professional result.
Why You Must Test Layout First
The goal: Minimize cuts and avoid small slivers in visible corners.
We try never to use more than half a tile for a single cut—this way, the other half is still usable elsewhere. With zellige’s price point, every tile counts.
Layout Strategy
Start with the most visible wall. In a bathroom, this is usually the wall you see when you open the door or the shower wall facing the room.
Consider focal points: If possible, center your layout on something prominent—a shower faucet, window, or vanity. This creates visual balance.
Work out from your starting point: Test the layout by placing tiles (without thinset) and marking where they end. Check both horizontal flow AND vertical height.
Common mistake: Focusing only on horizontal layout and forgetting to plan the top row. Don’t end up with a 1/2″ sliver at the ceiling—it looks terrible and is hard to cut.
Marking Your Lines
Set your laser level at the height of one tile above your lowest point.
Why? If there’s any variance in the floor level, you can shave down tiles with the wet saw to keep the first row level. This is another advantage of wet saw over tile snapper—you can make micro-adjustments.
Mark your starting point clearly. Use a pencil or marker—don’t trust memory when you’re in the middle of installation with thinset on your hands.
Keep your pattern in mind: If you’re stacking tiles in a grid (most common), this is straightforward. Running bond or other patterns require more planning—corner cuts will be different on each row.
STEP-BY-STEP INSTALLATION
Now we get to the actual installation. Follow these steps exactly and you’ll achieve a professional result.
Step 1: Mix Your Thinset Properly
This is essential. You’ll need a mixing drill and paddle attachment to get the right consistency and work out any dry chunks.
First mix: Add water to powder gradually, mixing to a buttercream frosting consistency. It should be spreadable but hold its shape. A slight slump is okay, but it shouldn’t run or be soupy.
Slaking (critical step): Let the mixture rest for 10 minutes. During this time, the polymers activate and the thinset reaches its proper chemical composition.
How to test: Lightly touch the thinset with your finger. If it transfers to your skin, it’s not ready. When fully slaked, it won’t stick to a light touch.
Second mix: After 10 minutes, remix for 5 minutes. Never add more water at this stage—it will weaken the bond.
Step 2: Set Up Your Laser Level
Once your substrate is level, plumb, and flat, it’s time to set up your laser.
Find your lowest point: Place a tile along the floor in multiple spots. The lowest point where the tile sits becomes your baseline. All other tiles will be shaved down with the wet saw to meet this laser line.
Why laser over chalk line? With handmade tile, you need to make row-by-row adjustments. A laser allows you to reference both horizontal and vertical planes continuously as you work.
Use both modes: Most lasers have horizontal and vertical settings. Use both as you move along the walls to ensure tiles remain level and plumb throughout the installation.
Step 3: Apply Thinset to Wall
Using your ¼” x ¼” notched trowel, apply thinset to the wall.
First pass – “burning in”: Hold the trowel flat and spread a thin layer of thinset on the wall. This ensures good contact with the substrate.
Second pass – creating grooves: Flip to the notched side and create uniform grooves at a 45-degree angle.
Work in small sections: Only spread enough thinset for 2-3 rows at a time. If thinset sits too long, it will “skin over” (form a dry layer on top), which hurts adhesion.
Step 4: Backbutter Each Tile (ESSENTIAL)
This is non-negotiable with zellige.
Using your margin trowel, apply a thin scraping layer of thinset to the back of each tile.
What you’re filling: Most zellige has a waffle-like pattern on the back. Fill these grooves completely with thinset.
The technique: Hold the margin trowel at a low angle and press thinset into the tile back, then scrape to create an even layer.
Why this matters: Backbuttering compensates for thickness variation and ensures 99% coverage between tile and thinset. Skip this, and you’ll have voids that lead to failure.
Step 5: Set First Tile
Press the backbuttered tile firmly into the thinsetted wall.
Wiggle it slightly as you press—this removes air pockets from the notched trowel grooves and ensures full contact.
Use your 1/16″ spacers on all edges that will touch other tiles.
Check with laser: Is it level? Plumb? This first tile sets the standard for everything else.
Step 6: Continue with 1/16″ Spacing
Keep using spacers to maintain consistent grout lines.
For grid pattern: You can insert the spacer directly into the grout line at corners—this ensures each tile aligns perfectly with adjacent tiles.
Check level continuously: Use your laser after each tile. Small corrections now prevent big problems later.
Don’t let thinset skin over: If you’re working too slowly and thinset is getting stiff, remove it and apply fresh thinset.
Step 7: Adjust for Tile Variance with Red Wedges
This is where zellige gets tricky—and where red wedges save the day.
After each tile, step back and look. Does everything appear level and flush? With thickness variations, sometimes a tile will sit too high or too low compared to its neighbors.
Insert red wedges from the bottom or top to push tiles into alignment. Sometimes you’ll use 2-3 wedges on a single tile.
Critical insight: Sometimes the laser will say everything is level, but your eyes will see that something looks off. Trust your eyes. Make adjustments with wedges until it looks right visually.
After each row: Step back and scan the entire row. It’s easier to adjust now than to see problems after the thinset has cured.
Step 8: Cutting Tiles
Measure twice, cut once. At $25/sqft, mistakes are expensive.
For straight cuts: Use your DeWalt wet saw with continuous rim blade. Cut slowly and smoothly—rushing causes chipping.
For outlets and fixtures: Mark the cutout carefully with a tape measure. Make multiple straight cuts to create the shape, then use the wet saw to nibble away the remaining material.
[IMAGE: Cutting zellige tile on wet saw with water flowing]
Why not tile snapper? Zellige’s thickness variation makes it nearly impossible to get a clean score line. Snappers crack these tiles 50%+ of the time.
The wet saw is forgiving: Even with handmade tile, you’ll get clean cuts if you’re gentle and patient.
Step 9: Let Set for 24 Hours
Once your installation is complete, resist the urge to grout immediately.
Wait 24 hours for thinset to fully cure.
After 12 hours: You can carefully remove spacers. Use needle-nose pliers to pull them out without disturbing the tiles.
Don’t walk away completely: Check for any tiles that have slipped or shifted. The first few hours are critical—if thinset is still wet, you can make adjustments.
GROUTING ZELLIGE TILE
Grouting is where your installation really comes to life. The grout lines define the character of zellige.
Step 1: Choose Your Grout
My go-to: Mapei Flexicolour ($30/bag)
Why Mapei?
- Easiest to work with
- Holds color longest (even in wet areas)
- Pre-sealed formula (though I still recommend resealing yearly)
- Most true-to-color in small grout line applications
Use unsanded grout for 1/16″ lines. Sanded grout will scratch zellige’s delicate glaze.
Color selection: Take a piece of your tile to the supplier if you’re having trouble choosing. I typically recommend light gray or white for zellige—it lets the tile color be the star.
Step 2: Mix Grout Properly
Always use a clean bucket and clean mixer. Old grout bits can discolor your new mix or create lumps.
Mix to a smooth peanut butter consistency—easily spreadable but not runny.
Note: Unlike thinset, Mapei Flexicolour does not require slaking. Once the first mix is complete, you can apply directly.
Step 3: Apply with Rubber Float
Use a rubber grout float—these are best for getting into small 1/16″ grout lines and clean up easier than traditional floats.
The technique:
- Hold float at 45-degree angle
- Pack grout into joints, working in all directions
- This ensures no air bubbles are trapped in grout lines
Remove big excess immediately with the float held at 90 degrees, scraping across the tiles.
Step 4: Wait 10-15 Minutes to Set
Grout needs time to firm up before cleaning.
How to test: Lightly press the grout with your finger. It should be firm enough to handle a gentle sponge pass, but you should still be able to remove some material with pressure.
Too soon? The sponge will dig into grout lines and pull out too much material.
Too late? Grout will be rock hard and nearly impossible to clean off tiles.
Step 5: Clean with Sponge
Use a large damp sponge (not soaking wet) and a bucket of clean water.
First pass: Wipe in all directions to remove excess grout from tile surfaces. Rinse sponge frequently.
Second pass: Focus on the grout lines themselves. Clean each line to make it as consistent as possible—no high spots, no low spots where you see the edge of the tile.
The goal: Grout should be flush with tile edges or very slightly recessed. It should not spill over the edges.
Pro tip: For the absolute cleanest result, use only one side of the sponge for one wipe before rinsing. This prevents dragging grout residue across clean tiles.
Step 6: Second Pass After 10 More Minutes
Get a fresh bucket of clean water.
After your first wash dries, you’ll notice a haze over the tiles. This is normal.
Give everything another wash, working in small sections and cleaning your sponge constantly.
Step 7: Final Cleanup
After another 10 minutes, use a clean, dry rag to dust off any remaining haze.
There should not be much left at this point. No grout adjustments should be necessary.
Step 8: Let Cure 24 Hours
Allow grout to cure fully before exposing to water or heavy use.
Step 9: Caulk Corners
After grout has cured, it’s time to seal corners and edges.
Use clear silicone or Mapei color-matched caulk ($8).
Why caulk instead of grout in corners? Corners are movement joints—they expand and contract. Grout will crack. Caulk stays flexible.
The technique:
- Cut a small hole in the tube (smaller than you think you need)
- Apply a thin bead in the corner
- Wet your finger and smooth in one continuous motion
- Wipe excess with a damp rag
Step 10: Seal the Grout
Mapei Flexicolour comes pre-sealed, so you don’t need to seal immediately.
However: I recommend applying a penetrating grout sealer at the one-year mark, then resealing annually.
This preserves color and protects against staining, especially in high-traffic or wet areas.
REAL COST BREAKDOWN: 150 SQFT ZELLIGE BATHROOM
Let’s talk numbers. Here’s what this Toronto project actually cost:
Zellige Installation
Tile:
- Zellige from Morocco: $25/sqft × 150 sqft = $3,750
Materials:
- Modified thinset (2 bags): $120
- Unsanded grout (2 bags): $80
- Grout sealer: $25
- Schluter Jolly trim: $60
- Misc (spacers, sponges, etc.): $60
- Total materials: $345
Labor:
- Installation time: 12 hours
- Labor cost: $2,500
TOTAL PROJECT COST: $6,595 + tax
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💰 COST COMPARISON: ZELLIGE VS STANDARD SUBWAY TILE
150 SQFT BATHROOM – ZELLIGE: • Tile: $3,750
• Materials: $345
• Labor (12 hours): $2,500
• TOTAL: $6,595 + tax
150 SQFT BATHROOM – SUBWAY TILE: • Tile: $600
• Materials: $250
• Labor (6 hours): $1,200
• TOTAL: $2,050 + tax
ZELLIGE PREMIUM: $4,545 (+220%)
Worth it? If you want the handmade, one-of-a-kind look—absolutely. If budget is tight—subway tile still looks great and is much easier to install. ━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━
IS ZELLIGE WORTH IT? MY HONEST TAKE
After installing zellige in dozens of bathrooms and kitchens across Ontario, here’s what I tell clients:
Zellige is Worth It If:
✓ You love the handmade, imperfect aesthetic – Every tile is slightly different, and that’s the charm
✓ Budget allows – It’s 2-3x the cost of standard tile, both in materials and labor
✓ You’re patient – Installation takes twice as long as standard tile due to thickness variation
✓ You embrace variation – Color shifts and thickness differences are features, not flaws
✓ You want something unique – Zellige creates a one-of-a-kind look that can’t be replicated
[IMAGE: Before and after comparison of bathroom transformation]
Skip Zellige If:
✗ You want perfectly uniform grout lines – The handmade nature means some inconsistency is inevitable
✗ Budget is tight – Subway tile looks great and costs a fraction of the price
✗ This is your first tile project – Zellige is advanced. Start with standard tile to learn techniques
✗ You need the job done quickly – Zellige requires patience and precision
✗ You prefer modern, minimalist perfection – Zellige is about embracing imperfection
The Bottom Line
That Toronto bathroom gets compliments every single time someone walks in. The handmade look is truly one-of-a-kind. Clients love the depth, the color variation, the authenticity.
But it required 12 hours of installation time for 150 sqft (subway tile would have been 6 hours). Every tile needed individual attention. Thickness adjustments with red wedges on nearly every piece. Constant checking and rechecking.
Zellige isn’t for every project—and that’s okay.
If you’re planning a zellige installation, take your time. Test your layout thoroughly. Invest in a quality wet saw. Ensure your substrate is perfectly flat. And whatever you do—don’t skip backbuttering.
All tile takes time and care. Zellige just requires a bit more of both.
With proper installation and yearly maintenance (resealing grout, gentle cleaning), zellige will remain beautiful for decades. This Toronto bathroom will be timeless and trendy for years to come.
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📞 NEED TILE INSTALLATION IN ONTARIO?
Anderson Kitchen and Bath specializes in complex tile work—from zellige to natural stone to custom mosaic installations. We handle everything: sourcing, substrate preparation, installation, and finishing.
Services: • Full kitchen and bathroom renovations
• Specialty tile installation (zellige, natural stone, mosaic)
• International tile sourcing and consultation
• Waterproofing and substrate preparation
Based in Erin, Ontario, serving the Greater Toronto Area and surrounding regions. ━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━━
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How long does zellige tile installation take?
For a 150 sqft bathroom, expect 10-12 hours of installation time, plus 24 hours for thinset to cure and another 24 hours after grouting. Total project time: 3-4 days minimum.
Can I install zellige tile myself as a DIYer?
If you have tile installation experience, yes—but zellige is advanced. I recommend starting with standard tile to learn techniques, then moving to zellige once you’re comfortable with substrate prep, thinset mixing, and grout application.
Where can I buy zellige tile in Canada?
Local options are limited. We source directly from Morocco or use US suppliers that ship to Canada (expect 6-week lead times and 13% import duties). Contact us if you need sourcing assistance.
Do I really need a wet saw for zellige?
Yes. Tile snappers will crack zellige 50%+ of the time due to thickness variation. A wet saw with continuous rim blade is essential for clean cuts.
What’s the best grout line spacing for zellige?
1/16″ spacing looks best. Due to tile size variation, some areas will naturally expand to 1/8″—and that’s fine. Start wider than 1/16″ and you’ll end up with 1/4″ gaps that look too large.
How do I maintain zellige tile?
Clean with mild, pH-neutral cleaners. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive scrubbing. Reseal grout yearly to preserve color and prevent staining.
Ready to start your zellige project? Save this guide, gather your tools, and take your time. The result will be worth it.
Questions? Leave a comment below or contact us for a consultation.
Article written by Jake Anderson, owner of Anderson Kitchen and Bath. Based in Erin, Ontario, we specialize in kitchen and bathroom renovations with a focus on complex tile installations. Follow us on Instagram for more tile installation tips and project updates.
Affiliate Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I actually use on job sites.
